Just two notes in the beginning: (1) On this page you will find links to other web pages. clicking these links will take you to another location, which I am not responsible for.
(2) Performing the procedure described below is very risky and it is very likely that you irreversibly damage your notebook. I do not take any responsibility for anything that happens with your computer just because you have done something like described here (what might be wrong). Please understand this as a report about what is possible instead of a guide.

Intro

After my left hinge broke (see report here), shortly the right broke as well. I think my problem was that I have used the PowerBook too long with the right hinge only - that might have caused too much stress on this part. Anyway - the "replace-the-hinge-problem" was waiting for the second time and this time I decided to replace the hinges without removing the disply but keep the cables attached.

Replacement Procedure

My PowerNook is a DVI-867Mhz version, which was the last one released before the aluminium machines were released. Therefore the description and the pictures might be different for previous revisions of the PowerBook G4. Just two remarks:

• I have used a wrist strap for electrostatic discharge. I would recommend anyone to use a kind of arrangement to make sure that no electrostatic discharge might happen and damage the computer.

• You will need a cross-shaped screw driver, a Torx T6, and a Torx T8 tool. The T6 for the two screws at the display case and the T8 for the rest. Also needed is some flat screwdriver for bending up the display case, and some glue for closing the titanium housing again. The glue I have used was 20ml "sekundenkleber dickflüssig" (far more than enough), which would mean in English "superglue" I suppose. I think many glues would work, but I would recommend one that hardens very quickly.

The first step is just to remove all the hinges stuff at the back of the PowerBook. Remove the hinge caps - just two T8 screws each - and remove the hinge assemby from the body - just the two back cross-headedscrews for each hinge.

On the image you see that I have taped the display: I decided to do this because I felt otherwise the other hinge might get damaged as well. For this reason also I recommend strongly to loose the hinge on the other side as well.

Now comes the brute force task: bend up the display housing ...

Still, this looks strange to me ...

Use a small screw driver to also loosen the broken hinge ... it is also glued with the housing.

Then you need to remove the metal band from the hinge part.

After you have successfully removed the broken hinge. Now out the new hinge inside. Before put the glue onto the buttom side of the hinge. On the image you can see, that I have used a large screw driver to press the hinge onto the display case.

Then add some glue on the upper side the hinge and press the housing together. Can you guess what I have used for it?

OK, the rest seems to be obvious, but consider one thing: when you fasten the black screws, which attach the display via the hinges to the housing, do not fasten them to strong.

Try to keep them somehow loose. Play a bit with it and try to find the best adjustment. An indicator for the adjustment is the latch mechanism: try to play with it ... when the display gently pops up, when you press the unlock button (of the latch mechanism) then you might have the right position. I have the feeling that this procedure has a strong impact on the lifetime of the new hinge: maybe so many hinges are also broken of the Titaniums, because the black screws were fastened too tight.

And then at the end: if you attach the hinge caps, be sure, that the cables are not squeezed.

Copyright (C) 2004 [MICHAEL C JAEGER].

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